Shein Opens Paris Store Amid Controversy and Protests

The opening of Shein’s first physical store in Paris has sparked significant controversy, drawing both eager customers and vocal protesters. On November 1, 2023, long lines formed outside the upscale BHV department store on the Rue de Rivoli as shoppers awaited the launch of the Chinese fast-fashion giant’s shop. Frédéric Merlin, the owner of BHV, welcomed the initial wave of customers, seemingly unfazed by the backlash surrounding the brand.

While the store attracted approximately 50,000 visitors on its opening day, it has also faced intense scrutiny related to allegations of unethical business practices. Shein is known for its affordable fashion, but it has been criticized for issues such as child labor and poor factory conditions. Environmental advocates have condemned the brand for contributing to the disposable fashion culture. Despite these concerns, BHV’s management remains committed to the partnership, as Merlin continues to defend the decision to host Shein.

Protests erupted on opening day, with demonstrators holding signs that read, “Protect the children. Not Shein.” One protester confronted customers in line, declaring, “If you spend even one euro, you’re scum.” Many shoppers, however, cited the low prices as a primary reason for their interest in Shein, with one customer insisting, “Nobody here in the queue condones pedophiles, okay?”

The backlash has led to significant fallout within the French retail landscape. Several local brands, including the esteemed womenswear label Agnès B, have withdrawn their products from BHV in protest of the partnership. Agnès Troublé, the founder of Agnès B, expressed her disapproval of fast fashion, stating in a recent interview, “I am totally against this fast fashion, which is worse than anything.” Her brand plans to cease its collaboration with BHV once their contract ends in January 2024.

In a further demonstration of discontent, French skincare brand Skin & Out took drastic steps to terminate its relationship with BHV. Co-founder Amélie Desazars Laparra personally visited the store to reclaim her brand’s products, highlighting the impact of Shein’s presence on local businesses. Other brands like A.P.C., Odaje, and Figaret Paris have also opted to withdraw in solidarity.

The controversy has not only affected BHV but has also created ripples in the retail sector. Galeries Lafayette, which operates several department stores under a licensing agreement with BHV, announced that it would cancel its partnership with the store’s parent company, Le groupe Société des Grands Magasins, due to the association with Shein. This decision will result in the removal of Galeries Lafayette’s branding from multiple locations, including Angers, Dijon, and Grenoble, where Shein shop-in-shops were set to open in early December.

As the situation continues to evolve, BHV has decided to delay the openings of Shein locations within Galeries Lafayette stores, although new dates have yet to be announced. A spokesperson stated, “We prefer to push the openings back by a few days, to get around the table, improve the range, expand the spaces, and offer lower prices.” Interestingly, some shoppers have found that prices at the BHV Shein store are not as low as those advertised online, adding another layer of complexity to the brand’s local reception.

This unfolding drama highlights the intersection of fashion, ethics, and consumer behavior in today’s retail environment, with Shein at the center of a heated debate over the future of fast fashion in France. As protests continue and local brands sever ties, the path forward for both Shein and BHV remains uncertain.