Afrofashion Association Champions Diversity in Milan’s Fashion Scene

The Afrofashion Association is making strides to enhance representation in Italy’s fashion industry, with a particular focus on African and other marginalized communities. This initiative came into the spotlight when emerging Ghanaian designer Victor Reginald Bob Abbey-Hart debuted his collection at Milan Fashion Week, showcasing the potential of diverse talent in a historically homogenous environment.

On the eve of Abbey-Hart’s runway debut, Michelle Francine Ngonmo, the founder of the Afrofashion Association, was busy coordinating logistics to accommodate the growing demand for the show. Ngonmo, a 38-year-old Cameroonian-Italian, has invested her career in raising the profile of people of color within Italian fashion and the arts due to a notable absence of representation. For the past decade, the Afrofashion Association has produced runway shows, mentored emerging designers, and recognized outstanding contributions to the industry through initiatives like the Black Carpet Awards, which launched in 2023.

In its first ten years, the Afrofashion Association has engaged with over 3,000 individuals of color, 92 of whom are on a sustainable career path in creative roles. Ngonmo emphasizes that while progress has been made, the need for further action remains critical. “Italy is no longer a white Italy, as imagined, but an Italy where there are many colors,” she stated, highlighting the evolving landscape of Italian society.

The Black Lives Matter movement has sparked important conversations in Italy regarding the lack of diversity in influential fashion houses. In collaboration with designers Stella Jean and Edward Buchanan, Ngonmo has urged fashion brands to transition from mere expressions of solidarity to concrete actions. Despite the industry’s reluctance to share diversity statistics, the ongoing challenges of inclusion have surfaced as several prominent brands faced backlash for racially insensitive designs.

For a time, there was a strong push for diversity, with initiatives like We Are Made in Italy (WAMI) mentoring creatives of color. Yet, as economic pressures mounted, interest in these initiatives began to wane. Ngonmo now concentrates on collaborating with organizations that have remained committed to fostering diversity, such as the Italian National Fashion Chamber. This institution has actively supported WAMI and provided platforms for emerging Black talents at Milan Fashion Week.

Abbey-Hart, who leads the brand Victor-Hart, expressed his gratitude for Ngonmo’s mentorship, which has significantly elevated his profile. His recent collection, featuring predominantly denim designs, reflects his journey in fashion, ignited by a childhood dream sparked by a Gucci bag he saw in Ghana. “Coming to Italy really gave me a big door of opportunity to understand what the world really asks for, as a designer,” he explained.

During Abbey-Hart’s runway show, Carlo Capasa, president of the Milan fashion chamber, attended alongside leading fashion editors, showcasing one of Abbey-Hart’s standout pieces. Capasa noted that projects with the Afrofashion Association have provided visibility and support for over 30 designers of color in recent seasons. He acknowledged the ongoing need for diversity and inclusion efforts in Italy, emphasizing Ngonmo’s vital role in helping institutions identify the needs within minority communities.

Despite the progress, Abbey-Hart, who has lived in Italy for nine years, pointed out the challenges still faced by Black individuals in the country. “Sometimes, before you even get to the room for the interview, you’ve been disqualified already,” he said. “I want people to understand, take away the color, take away what I represent, just look at the job.”

As the Afrofashion Association continues to champion diversity, the evolving narrative of Italian fashion reflects a broader social shift towards inclusivity. The efforts put forth by Ngonmo, Abbey-Hart, and their collaborators signify a critical movement toward a more representative and diverse industry.